Copy Catwalk: stand and deliver skirt

 LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE how this turned out!!!! Thanks for sending me an awesome purple modcloth dress copy catwalk suggestion, Nishat! It ended up being a fun skirt to make. I just made it a bit longer in the front so I didn't have to add an extra layer underneath, also making it a tad more modest. But if you want it to look super short in the front and more drape-y, then cut the angle deeper (as explained below). Anyway, I was happy to get a challenge and something non-refashion related to do....so here you go.

UPDATED INSTRUCTIONS :)

Supplies:

flowy fabric - knit or polyester

elastic (1" - 1.5" inches wide)

sewing machine or needle and thread

thread

scissors

flexible measuring tape

fabric pen or marking chalk

iron

pins

Instructions:
*If you are NOT using knit, note that you can not have a bow waist band because it can only be there if the material is stretchy, therefore knit. So, your options if you WANT the bow waistband but are using a non stretchy material (step #6) are: you have to use a stretchy material like knit for the waistband or add a zipper if the waistband (not the elastic part) will not be non stretchy. Or even more simple than that...just keep the waistband elastic exposed, just make sure to sew the raw edges of the skirt UNDER the elastic as you should be anyway.

1. Cut the pieces to the measurements specified in the diagram.

2. Fold in half and cut the two angles. Each angle about 1/3 of the length when folded. So the middle piece, which is the pocket piece will be 1/3 as well. The deeper you cut the angle the more drape. Make sure that when you cut the two angles, that you know that the length from the bottom of the angles will be how short it is in the front and back of the skirt. I make the angle a little deeper in the front.

3. Open up the fabric and gather with basting stitch the cut angles. Gather them to the exact length you want them to fall on your body.

4. Measure the elastic comfortably around the waist and make sure it can slide over you hips. The elastic can be as wide as you like (I wish mine was 1.5 inches wide). Pin the elastic ends together so you can wear it while you mark it. Mark the elastic when stretched around your waist in 5 places - even though there will be 6 markings (one doesn't need to be marked because it is where the elastic will be sewn together, the two ends). Mark the center of the back and the center front doesn't need to be marked (which is actually going to be the sewn part of the elastic or two ends). Mark where you want the pocket to start and end (like shown picture #2 below) in the front sides and back sides, making 4 markings. Sew a zig zag stitch to join the elastic to the gathered parts of the fabric to where the markings indicate (Like picture #3), leave a quarter to half inch un-sewn at the ends of the gathered pieces for the pocket attachment. So, the edge of each gathered piece is where the pocket's beginning or end will be. Make sure to NOT sew the pocket openings so there will be a open drape.
*When you stretch the elastic after you have sewn on the gathered part, you will hear snapping of the basting stitch in the gathered fabric sections. Which is normal because it is now gathered onto the elastic. Unless you want to take out the basting stitch after you've sewn it onto the elastic, that is fine too.

5. Measure pockets to be the length of the opening in the elastic (like picture #1). The pocket will be a deep U shape. Make them as long as you like, the longer they are the deeper the pockets will be. Sew the bottom U shape of the pocket to the open drape sections of the skirt (like shown in picture #5). You may have to gather the bottom of the pocket's U shape, it depends on the deepness and roundness of the pocket. Now, sew the top of the pocket to the elastic with a zig zag stitch. It should fall into place pretty perfectly (shown picture #4). Now the skirt should be looking like picture #6 and #7. Sew the front two ends of fabric and elastic together to make the front seam of the skirt with a straight stitch (picture #8).
6. Measure and cut out a waist band (This ONLY works if using knit or stretchy material for the waistband or you are planning on installing a zipper). If you aren't doing this in a stretchy material, then make it into a tie first, then later install a zipper. Make sure to fabric is cut so the stretch is from right to left, and make sure it is your waist size plus enough to tie a bow (an extra 3 or 4 feet). If you are doing this in knit, then you don't have to hem the edges or sew it in a tube (but you can do either of those if you want). I didn't. I liked how thin it was without the hemming or making it into a tie (and plus knit doesn't fray). Make the width at least an inch or two over wider than the elastic, mine was around 5 to 6 inches wide. Find the center of the waistband and center back of the skirt, if you want the bow center front, then pin them together there. If you want it off center like mine, then move and pin the center of the waistband off center of the center back. Make sure to pin and sew the waistband, right sides together, to just under the elastic with a zig zag stitch or my favorite, a vari-overlock stitch which looks like a zig zag stitch with a flat side. Sew all the way around till there is less than an inch between the two ties. This opening will be covered once the bow is tied. Flip the newly sewn waistband up to cover the elastic and tie a bow. If you don't want the bow, just make the waistband the exact size of your waist (as long as it can slide over you hips) and sew the band together, then follow the directions for the bow waistband. But pin the center of the waistband in front not back so the seam will be in the back.